Friday, December 18, 2009

Grose Valley

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What a name for such an incredible place. But I am ahead of myself. Lacking any ideas for my two late teens granddaughters, we decided to take them to the Blue Mountains for two days. Traveling up the Bells Line of Road, we were able to point out the cliffs at Perry Lookdown, then along the Darling Causeway, we glimpsed the start of the Western Plains. Our first real stop was at Govetts Leap at Blackheath. With a clear day this was always going to be an awesome sight. Beside us a tour guide was telling his people that the drop to the valley below was 1,000 meters. AS a teenager I can remember huffing and puffing as I came out but I didn't realise it was such a drop. These sheer cliffs have saved it from any development and it has been a park from 1931. On a day like today it was sheer joy to look out to Pulpit Rock, Mount Banks, Mount Tomah and down to Blue Gum Forest with the beginnings of Grose River below.

After lunch, we returned to take in this amazing vista again. None of us was in a hurry to leave . At Evans Lookout we could see to Perrys Lookdown where we hoped to spend the night. The girls were fascinated by the retaining walls and buildings made of bookleaf pavers. From here you can take a track to the Grand Canyon Track a five kilometer walk in a narrow gorge. This walk has exciting memories for me but now it needs repair and cannot be completed. Rather disappointing.

The sign did say five km gravel road but this didn't warn us of the horrific corrugations. Motor homes are not made for this treatment. But Perrys Lookdown was worth it. The sign does say for five camps only but double the number were occupied, most of them overseas tourists. I spoke to two lots of Swiss tourists. This was midweek and not school holidays so it could get very busy. After setting up we walked down the path to the lookout, in fact we did it several times hoping the sun would give us good colour on the cliffs of Mount Banks. Unfortunately, the sky was too clear for that.

Below us, deep in the valley was Blue Gum Forest. Memories flooded in for hubby and me of taking these girls Mum and her siblings on a camping trip there. Incredible to think we took such young ones down there, even Karen, the youngest had to walk in and out herself. It was very hot even in the valley and we skinnydipped in the Grose River. When we resurfaced, police and fire brigade personnel were waiting at our Mercedes. Apparently a fire was coming up the valley and they were deciding how to get our vehicle out. A fire we were ignorant of, but it did devastation by coming right through this valley several days later.

Next day, we were the first to leave. Travelling east, then along the Cliff Drive we stopped at Cahills Lookout, possibly the best view of Megalong Valley. The girls said it reminded them of home at Dungog. To the east Narrowneck was seen.

Scenic Railway was quite deserted when we arrived. Had nearly a private tour on the Skyway. With its glass floor and it swaying somewhat in the brisk morning breeze, this gave an exciting ride. Katoomba Falls was somewhat of a disappointment because of the lack of recent rain but we had a great view of Jamieson Valley and Orphan Rock. Back in the 1930s, Katoomba was THE honeymoon spot and brides and grooms would climb this rock to have their photos taken on it. Because of recent faults found, it is now closed to the public.

My favourite ride was next, the Scenic Railway. This is the steepest railway in the world. Round 1900, there was a coal mine down in the Jamieson and this railway transported miners up and down. After the mine shut down it was converted for tourists in 1933. Going over the cliff, through to the valley below is thrilling. At the bottom there is a good informative display of air vents and mines entrances. Coal is still very evident in the walls. There is a choice of three walks along well constructed wide boardwalks, one to the cablecar, a longer one to the miners hut and an extended one thought the rain forest. We did the thirty minute 'Miners Hut Walk' trying to follow the tour guide which was in German. My mistake, I had picked up the wrong guide. This boardwalk is so elaborate, it is easy to miss the old established Federal Pass that crosses it. For out trip up in the cablecar we were squashed in with a Japanese tour group.

The girls and I did the cliff walk to Echo Point and the Three Sisters. The temperature was rising so we hesitated in going down part of the Giant Staircase across to the First Sister, but from the lookout above it we could see that attraction was very busy with many people. Our two days here had been very full. Even though it was very hot even for Katoomba, the sky was very clear and the views just wonderful. It was fabulous to see it though my granddaughter eyes and enjoy this place again.

"How was this country shaped and carved? How huge was the tools and how patient the craftsman? Was it a glacier He wielded as a chisel, was a meteor a hammer, or an ocean His power washer to clean away the rock chips at the end of the day?

Why am I tempted on my worst days to think I can't trust His process as He carves out what He has in mind for me? The glaciers of disappointment, the rivers of joy, the downpour of responsibility, the earthquakes of grief, the forging power of pain. How can I not trust that these are all honing tools in the hands of the perfect sculptor, He always knew I was a lovely thing just trapped inside a stone. He is releasing my soul and freeing ,my spirit.'
(As read by Guy Penrod)

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Yarrangabilly

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This was my favourite time of day, the morning light before sunrise. The crisp mountain air was exhileraing as I had explored the firetrail to the Coobragarra Wilderness. Unusual limestone formations stood sentinel along this uneven valley track. This limestone extends from Blue Water Holes to the north and to the Yarrangabilly Caves to the south.

As I turned the corner on my return, the sun shone on this verdant beautiful valley. I stopped to take in the vista with the dark majestic European trees standing alongside the tall Australian eucalypts. It is very hard to imagine that a substantial village of Yarrangabilly once stood here, with its own police, school and post office. Only the postmasters residence now stands along the now busy Snowy Mountains Highway. Very little else gives any hint of any civilization here only those trees that were planted here by the settlers. They are now well over one hundred and fifty years old.

What did fascinate me was a chair, a substantial armchair, carefully carved out of a tree stump. This is on the northern side of the hill near the Horseshoe Trail overlooking the valley. It certainly is not obvious to the campers. Yet one can imagine the love put into the workmanship and here it is still some one and a half centuries later. Here under one of those magnificent tall trees, I could just visualise a mum sitting here maybe looking over her brood.

Back then the Police were here to protect the gold being transported from the Kiandra Gold Rush to Tumut. I wondered why it wasn't taken straight to Canberra then I remembered that our capital didn't exist then.

Now years later, centuries later, nature has taken over again and this valley is deserted, nearly pristine and certainly glorious. Just another treasure in our wonderful diverse country. a place we delight return to a often as we can.